五个印在爱马仕丝巾上的高冷故事
国人喜欢抢购奢侈品,但是很少有人能静下心来了解品牌背后的故事。比如爱马仕丝巾,在每幅看似不经意的图案背后,都有着不为人知的故事。跟着小编一起涨知识。
L’Ombrelle Magique 神奇的伞
设计师:Pierre-Marie
A prince once wanted to marry a young girl, as free as the wind and as beautiful as the birds. So the Old Hermit of the Chestnut Trees offered him a magic parasol, decorated with a porcelain bird-woman, which took him to the four quarters of the world, from East to West and from North to South. When at last he planted a kiss on its lips, a young girl appeared, freed from her fate。
这是一个童话故事:王子想娶一位年轻的姑娘,像风儿一样自由,像小鸟一样美丽。他遇到一个栗树老仙,送了他一把神奇的伞,伞尖上立着一个陶瓷做的美人鸟。这把伞带着王子游历四方,从东到西,从北到南。最后,当王子准备亲吻美人鸟的双唇时,一个年轻的姑娘被命运的枷锁释放,出现在王子面前。
Zebra Pegasus 斑纹飞马
设计师:Alice Shirley
Fascinated by the myth of Pegasus, and the famously untameable African zebra, Alice Shirley reinvents the classical legend, transporting it to southern Africa. The celestial mount of Zeus brought forth the fountain of the Muses with a kick of his hoof, and was turned into a constellation by the king of the gods. Here, he swaps his immaculate (完美的) white coat for the two-tone pattern of his close equine cousins. Completing this highly original portrait, his magnificent wings turn flaming orange, echoing the plumage of African parrots。
设计师爱丽丝·雪梨沉醉于珀伽索斯神驹的神话,又被非洲斑马的野性所吸引,于是她决定重写传奇,把珀伽索斯和南部非洲完美结合。珀伽索斯是宙斯的坐骑,足蹄踏过之处会涌出泉水,后来被宙斯变成了飞马座。方巾上的珀伽索斯脱去了一尘不染的雪白皮毛,换上了斑马的双色外衣。为了成就一匹独一无二、具有异国情调的飞马,设计师为它的翅膀涂上了如鹦鹉羽毛般绚烂的色彩。
Minuit au Faubourg 福宝大道的午夜
设计师:Dimitri Rybaltchenko
The clock strikes twelve. Midnight in Paris, and the city seems calm and quiet. But a signal beams out from the Eiffel Tower: a call to Super H! Something’s afoot (准备中). Masked and cloaked, the proud horse atop the Hermès building undergoes a strange metmorphosis, ready for action. We watch breathlessly as he prepares to take flight – a modern Pegasus for the world of the comic strip。
12点的钟声敲响,午夜的巴黎显得如此安详与平静。一束信号光从埃菲尔铁塔直射过来,照耀在超大的"H"上,似乎暗示有一些事情正在悄悄上演。隐蔽且隐形的高傲骏马在爱马仕建筑之上,随时准备变形飞入空中。我们焦急地等待着他跃入空中,犹如一个现代版的飞马漫画呈现在我们眼前。
Jockey 骑师
设计师:Philippe Ledoux
Riding high on the racehorses of the world, the jockey’s traditional attire has been transformed and simplified since the nineteenth century. Heavy riding coats were replaced by lightweight, brightly coloured ’silks’, boots replaced buckled slippers, and black riding hats decked with fluttering ribbons gave way to the familiar jockey’s cap. The riders’ comfort has greatly improved, and racecourses everywhere are bright with the vivid colours of each racehorse owner’s distinctive silk. Increasing numbers of owners led to a bewildering array of colour combinations and motifs until the introduction of precise rules, in 1900. Circling the silhouettes (轮廓) of jockeys in the heat of the race, a festive, multicoloured dance of caps fills the space of the square, punctuated with lucky horseshoes at each corner. Because even the greatest talent sometimes needs a little luck。
爱马仕最初以马具为主,所以丝巾中有很多以马术为主题的图案,这款丝巾就形象的绘画了19世纪开始简化的骑师服装:彩色的轻便骑装、马靴、骑师帽。从那时起骑装和骑师帽上都会印上马匹主人的印记。印记越多,色彩和图案的组合就越丰富。以至于在1900年,人们不得不对骑马服装搭配做出详尽的规定。彩色的骑师帽装点着围巾的空白处,四角上放置的马蹄铁是一种幸运符,因为即使是天才,有时也需要一丝运气!
Ballet Aquatique 出水芙蓉
设计师:Pierre-Marie
The sirens of legend were women whose melodious singing bewitched mariners, drawing them down into the depths of the ocean. George Sidney’s Le Bal des sirènes (Bathing beauty, 1944) – a love story between a ravishing girl swimmer and a musician – is a far cheerier tale. The film made its star, Esther Williams, famous. Synchronised swimming – a mix of swimming, dance and gymnastics – had made its first appearance a few decades earlier, but its popularity soared thanks to Esther Williams’s musicals. This scarf is an alluring group portrait, presenting the remarkable young women with grace and dazzling smiles, as well as extraordinary physical strength and prowess。
丝巾上这些女生的原型是希腊神话故事中的塞壬,一个女人变成的海妖,把水手迷得神魂颠倒,悠扬的歌声引得人坠入深不见底的大海。但其实她们出自于George Sidney导演的1944年电影《出水芙蓉》,讲述了一个花样游泳运动员和音乐家的故事。电影让主演Esther Williams一举成名,也正因为这部影片,出现了几十年的花样游泳开始广为流传。设计师为了怀念这部电影,把姑娘们出水时引人注目的体型、优雅的气质和迷人的微笑留在了丝巾上。